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Visiting Patagonia (El Calafate and Ushuaia)

December 4th, 2008 · 10 Comments · Subscribe to our RSS Feed

Last week we had a chance to take our first trip in Argentina with my brother, John, and his girlfriend, Elizabeth, who were visiting from Michigan.  It was their first trip out of the U.S., so it was quite an experience for them – actually for all of us.  We flew from Buenos Aires to El Calafate where we spent 3 days and then flew to Ushuaia for 2 days before flying back. We booked the flights through Lan Airlines web site, but had the hotels and tours set up through Wade Alexander who runs the “Imagine Argentina” travel agency.  I’d definitely recommend him if you want to plan a trip.

El Calafate is a small town located on Lake Argentina and is an excellent starting point for exploring the glaciers. Most of the town is geared around tourism, and the main street is filled with shops and restaurants catering to that crowd.  On the first day, we took a bus out to the Perito Moreno glacier where we first hiked around it before boarding a ferry to the other side for lunch and a mini-trekking expedition on the glacier itself.  The views were amazing!  The next day, we took a six hour cruise across Lake Argentina to explore three other glaciers as well.  The photos below probably do more justice to this than anything I can describe.

In Ushuaia, we took a five hour cruise out of the city to see the sea lions, Ushuaia light house and visit a penguin colony.  The boat actually grounds itself on the beach near the penguins, so you can get a very close look. (Some other tours actually let you walk on the island, but the number of people per day is limited.)  The next day, we took the “Train at the End of the World” (too touristy) and then hiked in the national park which gave us a chance to see a lot of wildlife. (a condor, beaver dams, tons of birds, etc.) And, I also ate a lot of king crab while I was there, although it was not quite the bargain I had hoped for (AR$90 for a dinner of king crab).

It was definitely an amazing trip. The photos below capture some if it… 

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10 responses so far ↓

  • 1 Donigan // Dec 4, 2008 at 1:14 pm

    What a grand trip! My wife and I are arriving in Buenos Aires on the 16th of January and have a flat in Belgrano. This is one of the first trips we want to make when we get time to travel. Question, though: This is in summer, right? How cold was it?

  • 2 Still Life in Buenos Aires // Dec 4, 2008 at 4:48 pm

    The Alexanders are such nice people.

    I’m glad you enjoyed the trip. We are going to the Chilean side of Patagonia at the end of December. I can’t wait to see penguins!

  • 3 Marc // Dec 4, 2008 at 6:18 pm

    Yeah for the price of one or two train tickets you can probably hire someone to drive you around the national park for a few hours and see the same setting. I only recommend it for people who really have a love for trains, want to say they rode the southernmost train, like guided tours of historical sites, or if the ticket prices won’t effect the travel budget.

    For the crab, $90 seems way too high but I guess that depends on where you went and how it was served. However, pretty much all of the restaurants have touristy prices. Crab is really expensive to buy in the stores too. I think something like 70 pesos for about a half kilo. Was about $30-ish about a year ago.

    @Donigan

    Weather is unpredictable. Can be warm ,sunny, and calm at one hour and super crappy the next. There was a big snow storm last year in mid-December for a day or two. Not a problem in January. At least bring clothes that will make you feel comfortable in 40 degree weather. Nice days sometimes get up to the mid-70’s and you may get lucky have that kind of weather for your whole stay. At night the temp can drop down to the 40’s. If the weather is a bit chilly just layer yourself properly because it might warm up while you are out and about.

  • 4 DaVe // Dec 4, 2008 at 6:43 pm

    Donigan – the weather was cool, and in the 50s, but like Marc said can change quickly. We needed to buy hats, gloves and long underwear for the trip out to the glacier and we were glad we did. We could stay out on the deck of the boat longer and enjoy the views.

  • 5 DaVe // Dec 4, 2008 at 6:44 pm

    Marc – we were expecting $30 AR crab too! Our friend told us all about it, so when we got there and saw the prices we were a bit disappointed!

  • 6 Donigan // Dec 4, 2008 at 8:07 pm

    A correction. My wife informs me that our flat is not in Belgrano, but Palermo Chico. To me, having seen none of it, it’s six of one, half dozen of another. It’s on Cervino (with a tilde over the n). Is it a decent barrio?

  • 7 melina // Jan 4, 2009 at 7:26 am

    hi, I am planning to go there next month. I need some advice on lodging and other activities. I will be in Buenos Aires and we want to spend only 2 days in patagonia we want to see the glaciers and we are not sure whether to choose el calafate, ushuua or tiera del fuego…
    can you contact me privately. We are a couple from Greece… and we would appreciate your advice… regards Melina

  • 8 giorgos // Apr 2, 2009 at 1:08 pm

    Geia sou melina
    Did you go there ?
    I am also from Greece (athina) and I will be in Argentina with my wife in two weeks. We still haven't decided between el calafate ushuaia etc. Perhaps your experience could help us.
    An mporeis steile mou entiposeis. Euxaristo

  • 9 DaVe // Apr 2, 2009 at 2:43 pm

    Giorgos, if you have to choose between the two, I would definitely pick El Calafate. Ushuaia is beautiful, but does not compare to the glaciers in El Calafate. You will only need a couple of days there to really see everything though.

  • 10 DMB // Jul 14, 2009 at 7:18 pm

    Would I be crazy to go in AUgust to Ushuaia and El Calafante? I;m cnocnerned not only about the cold, but will everything be closed out of season, stores, restaurants. Cold is OK if it is clear and we can go on the boats, etc. Any input is appreciated. A trip to Patagonia mid to end of this August.

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